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2020 Fall A Matter of Taste

A Hearty Fall Favorite

The arrival of autumn means cooler nights, shorter days and the return of warm, comforting dinners. Few dishes fit the bill better than risotto, especially when made with a favorite fall vegetable: butternut squash. Traditional Italian risotto is made by slowly cooking the rice, adding broth as the rice absorbs it, and stirring frequently. When …

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Here’s to a Summer Night

The long, rainy spring is finally gone, the sun is shining and summer’s here. It’s still unclear how much we’ll be able to socialize this summer, but rather than dwell on all the things we may not be able to do in the coming months, I’m reminding myself of the summer traditions we can still …

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The Gentle Maven of Burgundy

by Dave DeSimone

It’s fashionable to stereotype Burgundy wines as overly complicated and too expensive. Becky Wasserman-Hone simply doesn’t buy it. She has heard it all before over her forty-year career as an expatriate-American working as an export-wine broker in Burgundy, but she refuses to let it derail her dedicated promotion of the wines and growers of her …

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New & Noteworthy: Spirits & Tales

If you ascend to the tenth floor of the newly constructed Oaklander Hotel on Bigelow Boulevard near the University of Pittsburgh, you’ll find Spirits & Tales. This French-influenced restaurant features floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Oakland, with sweeping vistas that include the exquisite rooftop of Soldiers and Sailors Memorial and its manicured gardens. To the east …

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Howard Hanna: Buy and sell with confidence.

New & Noteworthy: Alta Via

Alta Via, named for a footpath through the Dolomite Mountains in northern Italy, is big Burrito’s first new concept in 15 years. The food is a unique fusion of the fresh, clean vegetable plates and wood-fired entrees one might experience in the California wine country with classic Italian cooking such as homemade pasta and gelato. …

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An All-American Tradition

by Cody McDevitt

Everyone has their favorite hot dog shop, the ones they swear by because they spent their youth eating there. Western Pennsylvania has a number of them. In a culinary landscape dominated by high-profile chefs, these nostalgic hot dog counters remind people of the type of food their ancestors ate while leaving the mills or mines. …

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Steak Night at the Firehouse

Sunday dinner at Station 17 in Homewood was supposed to be around 5:30. Maybe 6 at the latest. Because this is Steak Night. They almost never get to do Steak Night. Which is why John and Bill started peeling onions, slicing mushrooms, getting the meat and the baked potatoes and the green beans ready almost …

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New & Noteworthy: Siempre Algo

Siempre Algo is the main attraction on a developing block on the North Side’s East Ohio Street. In a historic building with a pressed tin ceiling and sporting an open kitchen underscored with an accenting geometric pattern, this funky establishment exudes warmth. At Siempre Algo (Spanish for “Always Something”) there is “always something” sublime and …

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New & Noteworthy: Pie for Breakfast

Trevett and Sarah Hooper have done it again, executing on their entrepreneurial vision by adding a third successful venue on North Craig Street in Oakland. Fans of Legume (their adjacent bistro) and Butterjoint (their bar/casual food concept) have anticipated the opening of this nourishing new diner. The Hooper hallmarks—a simple spot serving carefully sourced food …

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Crêpes Parisiennes Offers Delicious Flavors and Care-Free Moments

by Dave DeSimone

No food evokes the bohemian spirit of Parisian street life better than hot crêpes served with either savory or sweet fillings to order. Add a glass of crisp, fizzy cider, and your cares melt away in the pleasures of the moment. Since 1998 in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, loyal customers of David Handler’s Crêpes Parisiennes have savored …

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What’s Missing in Pittsburgh Dining?

The Pittsburgh Quarterly Restaurant Review Board has been tasting and testing local cuisine for 25 years. We asked our mavens to weigh in on what they’d like to see in Pittsburgh’s culinary future. Their responses follow. Pittsburgh has made great strides in cleaning our rivers and reclaiming our waterfronts. The time is right for restaurants …

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Pittsburgh Quarterly Presents “The List” 2019

Pittsburgh Quarterly’s Restaurant review Board is pleased to present our list of favorite restaurants. The list was generated based on our preferences for memorable dishes, fresh ingredients, professional service, appropriate atmosphere and, most important, consistently delicious food. Through regular meetings, spirited conversations and intense reviews which detail our anonymous dining experiences, we voted to generate …

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New and Noteworthy: LeoGreta, Fish nor Fowl

Longtime Pittsburgh chef Greg Alauzen has opened his own restaurant in Carnegie paying homage to his parents, Leon and Greta with his homemade Italian cuisine. His enthusiasm as chef/owner is palpable. Firmly at the helm in the kitchen; he takes time to visit his guests. His menu is straightforward featuring Italian classics made from scratch. …

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Essential Dining: Winter

While Pittsburgh winters often begin with sparkling lights, a gentle first snow and holiday splendor, they can quickly become slush and ice. The constant threat of the wintry mix, the steady stream of gray days, and scattered plastic chairs reserving parking on snowy streets can wear down the most pleasant among us. Confronting the cold …

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Introducing the Pittsburgh Quarterly Restaurant Review Board

Pittsburgh Quarterly is happy to introduce a major new food and dining section, featuring Pittsburgh’s leading food experts–a group that for the past 25 years has chosen the region’s best restaurants. We’re honored that they’ve decided to join Pittsburgh Quarterly. And our readers are literally in for a treat as they bring their expertise to …

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If Pittsburgh is Having a Restaurant Boom, Why are So Many Restaurateurs Worried?

by Melissa McCart

Even with the opening of Ace Hotel in 2015, there seems to be a lot of East Liberty restaurant spaces waiting for tenants. Head down Penn Avenue and there are a parade of empty storefronts, including the former Livermore space at South Highland and the old Anthon’s Restaurant & Bakery (now the home of a …

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World-Class Sparkling Pinot Noir from Pennsylvania? You Bet!

by Dave DeSimone

Discovering delicious surprises always provides a large part of the fun in drinking and sharing wines. Surprises keep you honest as a wine drinker while refreshing the senses and expanding the palate. Such is the case with the N.V. South Shore Wine Company, Sparkling Pinot Noir, Pennsylvania ($19.95; available online and at the winery). from …

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Combat Cold Weather with Époisses Cheese and Crisp Wines

by Dave DeSimone

Enduring cold weather at the start of a new year calls for serious measures. Time to break out the Époisses de Bourgogne cheese and tasty wines. Those already familiar with the glories of Époisses know what I mean. Once you’ve experienced Époisses, the intense sensory impressions cannot be forgotten. Passionate reactions are common. Époisses cheese …

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Venison: Pennsylvania’s Favorite Meat

by Bridget Fertal

The primary red meat of Pennsylvania is probably not at your local grocery store, but it may be romping through your backyard. And it turns out that venison (deer meat) trumps beef not only in popularity, but also, the experts say, in health benefit and nutrition. Whether you find the deer in your yard to …

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The New Way to Entertain

by Barbara Eichenlaub

As the holidays approach, so might a corresponding sense of dread—at the thought of entertaining. While enthusiastic hosts and hostesses can get lots of things ready in advance, preparing and serving a holiday meal or hors d’oeuvres at the last minute can be overwhelming. Some people choose to simply go to a restaurant or club, …

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Stepping Back with Local Ciders and Meads

by Barbara Eichenlaub

Pittsburgh has been recognized as a top city for discerning foodies, but there is also a robust adult beverage industry. In addition to microbreweries, wineries, and distilleries, there’s a growing niche for hard cider and mead. These local ciders, some still, others carbonated, tend to be less sweet than commercial ciders; and the meads run …

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Pair Trendy Hawaiian Poke Bowls with Alsace Gewurztraminer and Craft Beers

by Dave DeSimone

If you haven’t heard of poke bowls, don’t worry. You will. Just ask Angela Earley, a partner in Penn Avenue Fish Company in Pittsburgh’s Strip District. “Recently regular customers have come in saying how much they enjoyed poke bowls in L.A.,” she notes. “Some even told us we should open a poke only restaurant.” But …

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