Ohio’s Amish Country

If you were lucky, at some point in your childhood, you collected a bunch of old boards, raided your dad’s toolbox, teamed up with your pals and built a treehouse. It might have been rickety, or so simple that it was basically a platform in a tree. But seen through the eyes of a child, it was palatial. And, while it would be fun to recreate the exploits of your youth, your standards might have changed a bit.

Fortunately, Amish Country Lodging in Holmes County, Ohio has just the place — adult “treehouses.” These open-floor plan, luxury abodes, which are technically built on metal frameworks, sit in the canopy of the trees, a lofty 20-30 feet in the air, and are designed to meet your every creature comfort. Amish-built, with a log cabin appearance, they boast heated floors, gas fireplaces, plush king beds, fully appointed kitchens, deluxe bathrooms, Wi-Fi, flat-screen televisions, stunning views from the rear decks and comfortable seating. Many have hot tubs on the decks, jetted tubs, fire pits, BBQ grills and other amenities. Some have sky bridges that connect to another treehouse. Others have multiple bedrooms. There are loads of configurations. (And don’t worry, no rope ladders here; there are actual steps to access each unit.)

If sleeping a little closer to the stars isn’t your thing, Amish Country Lodging also has an 81-room hotel decorated in contemporary, muted tones, as well as cottages and cabins. Each distinct option is clean and comfortable.

If you can pull yourself away from your cozy home in the trees, there is a lot to do in Holmes County, the nation’s largest Amish community, by percentage. Amish experiences abound, some more touristy than others. The county is dotted with small towns, all about 20 minutes apart, and each has its highlights. (Just grab one of the many available tourist books and you’ll get a map and a good overview of the area.) The Amish are known for their handcrafting and woodworking, and whether you want Adirondack chairs (in any form — adult, kids’, rockers, swings, etc.), furniture, sheds, quilts, or Americana-type decorative items, acres are available, as are antique malls, craft stores and souvenir shops. And check out the book section of Amish romance literature. Lehman’s, a bit north in Kidron, Ohio, provides a mercantile experience from the mid-1850s. The emporium carries American-made toys (that don’t require batteries), canning supplies, farm and gardening implements and an assortment of items if you want to live off the grid.

If you’re hungry, Amish restaurants such as Mrs. Yoder’s Kitchen and Der Dutchman (with parking for cars and horse and buggies) aren’t long on ambiance, but Amish and “English” alike come for the buffets. There are mounds of crispy fried chicken, juicy pork chops, glazed meatloaf (made from local beef) and a carb-lover’s paradise of real mashed potatoes, stuffing, chicken and noodles, broccoli and rice and hot, yeasty rolls, often served with a peanut butter/marshmallow fluff/maple syrup accompaniment. Desserts are mile-high wedges of fruit or cream pies served with steaming mugs of coffee. With a diet like that, it’s amazing that the average lifespan of an Amish person is 85 years.

Local stores carry preserves, apple butter, chow chow, canned vegetables, fruits, and more. Satisfy your sweet tooth at Coblentz Chocolate Company in Walnut Creek. They have been making delicious chocolates for over 35 years using fresh, local cream and butter. They have cases of tasty candy, but their cherry cordials, caramels and toffee are among their most popular. Numerous shops sell locally produced meats and cheeses. Be sure to stop at Guggisberg Cheese Factory in Millersburg. You can watch them make their award-winning cheese through a window, and they offer samples of all sorts of Swiss cheese. They actually invented Baby Swiss. Check out all of the imported European foods available in the store, as well.

The numerous Amish bakeries are adorned only with large, delicious and inexpensive warm loaves of bread, giant cookies, glazed apple fritters, huge cinnamon rolls, fried hand-pies laden with fruit, and cupcakes, piled high with fluffy icing. Miller’s Bakery, on a remote country road, is particularly good.

At the Amish and Mennonite Heritage Center in Millersburg, exhibits explain the culture and religion, and a short film and a guided tour including a 10-foot-by-265-foot cyclorama mural by German artist Heinz Gaugel displays the heritage. Other stops about the Amish, Mennonite and Swiss backgrounds are the German Culture Museum in Walnut Creek and the Alpine Hills Historical Museum in Sugarcreek, where you’ll also find what’s purported to be the World’s Largest Cuckoo Clock. The 23-foot-tall clock performs every half-hour, seasonally, and features polka music and numerous carved figurines.

Should you get overloaded with all of the local “charm,” there are other things to do, such as Airport Ridge Sporting Clays in Millersville. The 135-acre course includes 18-station and 12-station courses, as well as a 5-stand, and golf carts and a selection of shotguns for rental. (You can also bring your own equipment.) Private instruction can be arranged with eight-time state champion Bill Mayer.

Dover is home to the Warther Museum, housing the works of Ernest “Mooney” Warther. In 1888, his father died, leaving his mother with five young children, 20 cents and a cow. Warther was 3, and by age 5, he started working as a cow herder to help support his family. A hobo taught him to carve pliers from a piece of wood and eventually he was able to make a pair in seconds, ultimately making over 750,000 in his lifetime. With only a second-grade education, he worked in steel mills and eventually started the Warther Kitchen Cutlery company (primarily kitchen and pocket knives, but his World War II Commando Knives, made for local soldiers, are highly collectable). His hobby of whittling, and ultimately, carving, earned him the title of the “World’s Master Carver.” His 64 major train replica pieces depict the history of the steam engine until the Union Pacific’s “Big Boy” locomotive (1941). Using mainly ebony, walnut, ivory and mother-of-pearl (but never any glue, because he didn’t trust that it would last), his work was so exquisite that everyone from Henry Ford to the New York Central Railroad offered him fantastic amounts of money to work for them or buy his pieces. But neither he nor his trains could be bought. Today, you can tour a museum filled with over 100 pieces of his art, his home, the property, which includes Swiss-style gardens planted by his wife, Frieda, the Dave Warther Arboretum, and visit Frieda’s collection of over 73,000 buttons, a marvel of their own.

In Sugarcreek, Warthur’s grandson, David Warther II, has his own workshop and museum, David Warther Carvings. His art focuses on the “History of the Ship,” and, using research and blueprints from various maritime museums, he has created over 80 pieces depicting ships from Ancient Egypt to the present day, primarily from antique ivory. Rigging, carved to an astonishing seven-thousandths of an inch and intricate hand-etching, called scrimshaw, make each ship stunning. The museum is viewed via guided tour and Warther is often there, working in his studio and interacting with visitors.

There are several wineries and breweries in the area (although there are some dry towns), and Bags Pub has hearty bar food. Tarragon at The Inn at Honey Run is the area’s most upscale restaurant.

Each season has its own charm and festivities. Crowds are smaller in spring; summer has more tourists and warmer weather; the fall foliage is beautiful; and winter has welcoming holiday decorations. (Of course, ’Tis the Season Christmas store is open year-round and is filled with a staggering assortment of themed decorations.) When planning, keep in mind that most area businesses are closed on Sundays, so check hours.

Whether you just want to spend some relaxing time in a treehouse or immersing yourself in a fascinating part of Ohio, the Holmes County region is worth the drive.
www.amishcountrylodging.com
www.visitamishcountry.com