Warm the Cockles of Your Heart with Chestnut Soup

“Chestnuts roasting on an open fire” — it’s an image that instantly evokes crackling logs and the warmth and cheer of the holidays. But how often are chestnuts actually on the menu? In Italy, where many of the chestnuts sold in the U.S. are grown, they’re popular in the fall and early winter, roasted by street vendors or baked into savory stuffings and pasta sauces. Why then, are chestnuts rarely on our holiday grocery lists?

Perhaps one reason chestnuts are not more widely popular is that they can be slightly tough when not freshly roasted. But when pureed, their flavor is nutty and sweet. It plays well with warming spices, herbs, and has an almost buttery richness.

This soup celebrates the humble chestnut and, for the convenience of everyday cooking, doesn’t require an open fire. It’s also made with roasted butternut squash, which complements the chestnut’s earthy sweetness without overpowering it. The soup is pureed until thick and creamy, with a swirl of heavy cream stirred before serving for good measure. A final sprinkle of pancetta, fresh chives, and ground nutmeg make this a holiday home-run.

Jarred roasted chestnuts (often sold in the baking aisle) work well here, but if you can find fresh chestnuts, consider roasting your own: Start with one pound of chestnuts. Make an x-shape cut in each shell, and roast on a sheet pan for about 30 minutes at 350 degrees, until the skins are beginning to curl and the chestnuts are tender. Transfer to a bowl, cover with a dish towel, and set aside to cool completely before peeling.

This soup would make a lovely first course for Christmas dinner, ladled into small bowls or teacups, or a satisfying lunch with toasted bread on the side. However you serve it, it’s sure to fill your kitchen with cheer and please your guests, from one to 92.

Creamy Squash and Chestnut Soup

Serves 6

• 6 cups cubed butternut squash (about 1 ½ pounds)
• 1 crisp apple, cored and large-diced
• 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 (4-ounce) package cubed pancetta
• 2 cups thinly sliced shallots (4 to 6 shallots)
• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
• 2 cups whole roasted chestnuts (about 10 ounces)
• 1/3 cup dry sherry
• 4 cups (1 quart) chicken broth
• 1/4 cup heavy cream, plus more for serving
• Minced fresh chives, for serving
• Ground nutmeg, for serving

STEP 1
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees and line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Place the butternut squash and apple on the sheet pan and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of black pepper and toss. Roast for 30 to 35 minutes, tossing occasionally, until the squash is caramelized and tender.
STEP 2
Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring often, until browned and crisp, about 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside.
STEP 3
Add the shallots and thyme to the Dutch oven, along with an additional tablespoon or two of olive oil if the pan looks dry. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the chestnuts and sherry, and cook, scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until the sherry has almost completely evaporated. Set aside off the heat until the squash is finished roasting.
STEP 4
Add the squash, apples, and chicken broth to the Dutch oven. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of black pepper and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
STEP 5
Off the heat, use an immersion blender to puree the soup until completely smooth. (Alternatively, you can cool the soup slightly, then transfer to a blender and puree, working in batches if necessary. After blending, return the soup to the pot.)
STEP 6
Stir in the heavy cream and add more salt and pepper to taste. Serve the soup hot, garnished with the reserved pancetta, a swirl of cream, fresh chives and a pinch of ground nutmeg.