Seasons Saltings
John Tarallo is a happy person. And he seems to infuse his infectious enthusiasm and passion into everything he touches. Raised in Lawrenceville and Bloomfield, he started working at the legendary Groceria Italiana at 13. There, and in his Italian mother’s and grandmother’s kitchens, he watched and learned about food, flavors and cooking. He went on to work in restaurants, including as a pizzaiolo, or pizza-maker, at Piccolo Forno.
For Tarallo, it has always been about flavor. So, he started a business purveying one of the most basic ones: salt. While he enjoyed supplying local restaurants, he had a different vision. In 2014, he started selling salt to retail customers in the Strip District from a table in front of Mon Aimee Chocolat at 21st Street and Penn Avenue. Steel City Salt Company was born. The business thrived, and while he and his Peruvian wife and partner, Candy, still have the Strip location (which is open on weekends from April through December), they opened a brick-and-mortar store in Millvale in 2018, where they carry over 50 different types of salt, and much more.
While many people think of salt as coming in a few forms, such as iodized, Kosher and sea salt, Tarallo quickly dispels that myth. In fact, every region in the world produces salt, whether it comes from sea water or brine springs and is solar evaporated or boiled in a brine solution.
The charming store emits a warm glow (some of which comes from the wall of illuminated pink Himalayan salt lamps) and is a cook’s delight. The salts fall into three categories. There are non-flavored salts, which are sourced and imported from a myriad of countries and then bottled in-house. These include Sicilian salt from the home of Tarallo’s ancestors to the more exotic Sal de Gusano (Tequila Worm Salt). Then, there are infused salts. Tarallo views salt as a great blank slate that can be infused with flavors ranging from black truffle to smokey, spicy chili pepper. Finally, there are blends in which different flavor profiles are created with salt-based seasonings.
Tarallo is a bit of a savant when it comes to salt — he will share that Hawaiian salt, with its higher iron content, is especially suited to grilled meats, while the texture of Himalayan salt lends itself best to a grinder. His exuberance will rub off and you’ll find yourself opening testers, smelling salts and learning more than you thought possible about this vital seasoning.
Whether you get the popular Steeltown Garlic & Herb Grinder, the smokey, sweet, crunchy, tangy Black & Gold Blend, Dill Pickle Salt (especially popular during Picklesburgh and amazing on popcorn) or Pierogi Salt, you can’t go wrong. By producing everything small-batch, Tarallo’s team maintains quality control and superior products, which have become their hallmark.
In addition to salts, they also make flavored sugars. Popular this time of year are pumpkin, salted caramel and cinnamon sugars. Whether used on toast, in baking or in cocktails, the possibilities are seemingly endless. They also carry an array of spices, and all are the same ones used in their blends, as they want to assure freshness.
There are loads of gift items available as well, many of which are sourced from local makers: Himalayan salt lamps and night lights, as well as beautiful slabs that can be used for sear-cooking or simply serving. Pink Himalayan salt shot glasses are a fun way to drink tequila! There are salt boxes, apparel in a variety of sizes and options, towels, salsa, jams, pickles, oils, vinegars and honey. There are premade gift boxes, or, you can create your own. Items from Steel City Salt Company are also popular as wedding or shower favors and corporate gifts.
Its products are available in the flagship store in Millvale, seasonally at their stand in the Strip on weekends, online and at over 200 independent retainers. They’ll make it easy to spice up your holiday (and your cooking)!
Steel City Salt Company, 206 Grant Ave., Pittsburgh, PA 15209, steelcitysalt.com